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Rabbit, guinea pig, mouse and rat care
If you are considering owning any of the above lovable creatures, you should take into careful consideration the following checklist before bringing your pet home. Either click your way directly to your area of interest below, or study our entire page for an exhaustive summary of all that you need to know to properly care for your precious pet!
Things to consider before purchasing your pet
Adopting or purchasing a pet rabbit, guinea pig, mouse or rat implies a serious
daily commitment which, according to the pet you choose, can last from five to 10
years and over. While you can buy rabbits and guinea pigs at RSPCA Adoption Centres you may consider acquiring your rats or mice from a rat rescue group such as the Australian Rat Fanciers Society which can put you in touch with reputable breeders, and are great source of information for all things ratty. On top of providing invaluable companionship, owning a pet teaches a child responsibility and how to care for and respect all creatures, great and small. However, it is important that parents guide their children in their choice of a pet and the husbandry of the animal, and be prepared to supervise the day-to-day care so that the creature is not neglected through ignorance or loss of interest. It should also be noted that rabbits are better suited to children over the age of ten. One of the most popular pet rodents, guinea pigs are generally hardy animals, and given the right facilities, are easy to care for. Guinea pigs are docile with people and soon become tame and tractable. Their size and shape allow them to be easily handled by children. Again though, parents should assume full responsibility to supervise their children's care of the animal. Because they are social creatures, guinea pigs are happiest when in the company of other guinea pigs and are best kept in desexed groups of two or more. *Note: To avoid unwanted pregnancies undesexed males and females must be housed separately.
Like guinea pigs, rabbits are social animals and require companionship. They love the company of their long-eared siblings but may also live happily with other animals if socialised properly. To avoid injury though, care should be taken when introducing these animals to your rabbit. It is also essential to set up a proper rabbit and predator-proof enclosure in the garden to ensure the safety of your pet. Mice and rats can make excellent little pets and are very popular with children. However, their average life-span is only about two years. Having been bred in captivity for nearly one hundred years, there now exist forty different varieties of these tiny creatures. Pet mice are easily handled by children and do not require large or expensive facilities. For mice, rats, and guinea pigs, the only advantage of choosing a purebred variety is a recognisable size and appearance (that is, a particular colour pattern). For rabbits on the other hand, different breeds will possess different temperaments. So if you're after specific traits in your long eared friend, this may be the way to go. Note however, that purebred varieties may be expensive to purchase. Short-coated pets are the easiest to groom, particularly as many tend to groom themselves, while the long-coated varieties (especially the Angora rabbit) require a great deal of daily grooming. It is always recommended that males not be kept together because of the risk of fighting (even if these are desexed). Instead, the best option when selecting domestic pets, is to choose the combination of male/female, both of which should be desexed. Read all you can about the animal you wish to adopt or purchase. Talk to friends who own the same type of pet and ask your local Vet about the specific medical problems the pet of your choice could contract. Check how these diseases are recognised and what prevention measures are required to avoid them. Guinea pigs, rabbits and mice require specialised shelter from the elements, protection from natural enemies such as cats, dogs and wild birds, a correct and balanced daily diet and plenty of daily exercise. Owners are responsible for checking their pets daily for any signs of illness, as well as ensuring that they receive prompt veterinary care when they are ill. The Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act cover all animals and birds, proclaiming the following offences pet owners should know about:
It is illegal to keep wild (bush) rabbits as pets, however pet rabbits may be kept without a permit provided they are housed according to the requirements set down by the Department of Primary industries. If you suspect cruelty to an animal, inform the RSPCA Inspectorate or Victorian Police immediately. Caring for your rabbit or guinea pig
It is recommended to pair neutered males with spayed females as generally this duo proves the most successful in terms of getting along. While males may appear to be dominant at first with their excessive mounting, the female will usually soon assert her dominance by mounting the male in turn or nipping him. Once the female makes it clear she's the boss, the male will usually back down and be ready for a happy co-existence as friends! Same-sex pairing is also possible, however this will require at least one submissive rabbit and a bit or patience on your part. Before housing rabbits together in the same cage, it is important to assess how well they get along over several days in a supervised environment. If a fight occurs while the rabbits are caged, it will be difficult to separate them, and this can lead to your bunnies suffering serious injuries. In order to encourage bonding then, choose a small, neutral area such as a bathroom or penned enclosure in which to allow your rabbits to interact. Place them side by side and distract them from chasing each other by feeding them treats, which they'll have to eat together. Sometimes loud noises or spraying them with water can also help stop the chasing. The important thing is to prevent your rabbits from fighting. If you manage this, then you're well on you're way! Typically, a good sign is when they begin to co-exist in their neutral space. Shortly thereafter they should begin to sit closer, sleep near each other and eat together. After your bunnies display these behaviours, leave them in their neutral space a bit longer and wait for reciprocal grooming to occur as the ultimate sign of successful bonding. The key to success then is patience and supervision. If you have any queries or need some advice, contact the RSPCA for advice. For rabbits and guinea pigs alike, a spacious hutch is absolutely essential in securing the wellbeing of your furry friend. It is important to know however that most hutches available at pet stores are far too small to be suitable for your rabbit or guinea pig. While hutch size will vary according to breed, the number of animals housed in the same hutch, and how much time they spend in it, when purchasing a home for your precious pet, remember that bigger is always better. The hutch is a cage divided into two connecting compartments: one for day time with a wire mesh door to admit light and air; the other to provide protection against wind, rain, or cold, and a mosquito proof retreat at night time.
The roof of the hutch should be hinged to allow ease of access when cleaning and the hutch should be raised off the ground and located in an area where it can catch the morning sun. However, be sure to avoid exposing your pet to direct sunlight, as rabbits can suffer from heat stress and even heatstroke in hot summer months. The day compartment should be fitted with a water bottle, hay-rack, gnawing block or bark-covered log, and an earthenware feeding bowl. The bedding straw must be replaced daily, and each week the hutch should be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed. The floor of your rabbit's hutch should be covered with newspaper, upon which should be placed a layer of bedding material (straw, grass, hay or shredded paper) to provide warmth, comfort and cushioning for your rabbits feet (to prevent pressure sores from forming). It is also highly advised to cover the hutch with a gauze mesh (fly screen) over the wire to keep out mosquitoes which carry a deadly rabbit disease called myxomatosis. Your guinea pig hutch should instead have a covered section so that your furry companions feel safe and protected while they sleep. Guinea pig hutches should be lined with soft grass or hay and NOT sawdust or wood shavings, as these are more likely to cause respiratory problems. Also avoid straw-floored hutches. When choosing a spot for your pet's hutch, remember to consider extreme weather conditions. Indoor hutches should not be placed in direct sunlight or in a poorly-ventilated area during hot summer months. Outdoor rabbit hutches should be well protected from the elements (again direct sunlight must be avoided) and be elevated from the ground to avoid attack from predators. It is necessary to ensure your guinea pig or rabbit exercise daily. A strongly-fenced enclosure should be built around the hutch to provide earth-contact exercise for your guinea pigs or rabbits. The enclosure fence must not only protect your pets from predators, but must prevent their escape by burrowing or jumping. Inside the enclosure there should be some hollow logs and pipes, shrubbery or rocky caves, in order to provide the animals with cover and protection. Rabbits will need at least two hours of exercise outside of the hutch each day. Daily grooming of guinea-pigs and rabbits is essential to keep the coat in good condition. Use a firm brush to remove dead hairs, tangles and pieces of twigs, dry leaves or burrs. During grooming, check the animal for general health and external parasites. Eyes, ears and nose should be checked daily for any discharge, making sure they are free of grass seeds which can commonly become stuck in these places. Also check the length of toenails and, if too long, have them clipped by a veterinarian or an experienced groomer. Handling your pets daily also has the added benefit of keeping them tame.
As herbivores guinea pigs and rabbits need a diet consisting almost entirely of
vegetable matter. Variety is essential, and the food offered must be fresh. An
ideal diet consists of 85% hay and 15% green veggies with an occasional fruit.
Avoid feeding your pet pellets (as they can cause dental problems) and mixes which are high in grains or which contain molasses. For rabbits, an essential ingredient to ensure their dietary health is grass or grass hay. This will allow your bunny extended periods of happy chewing which is necessary to wear down their continuously-growing teeth, and thereby helping to prevent dental disease. Chewing on grass or grass hay also helps keep your intelligent friend occupied and prevent boredom. The high fibre content of grass and grass hay is also crucial for normal gastrointestinal motility. For guinea pigs a diet high in roughage is necessary to encourage chewing which helps wear down teeth and prevent serious dental problems. As for rabbits, fibre is also essential to both their gastrointestinal system and general health. To ensure your rabbit and guinea pigs have a healthy "balanced" diet, you should provide:
Keep feeds and feeding habits consistent. Any changes to the diet must be made gradually, over a two to three week period, to minimise digestive upsets. Do not feed your pet: cereals, grains, nuts, seeds, corn, beans, peas, breads, biscuits, sweets, sugar, breakfast cereals, chocolate or any garden plants that are toxic to rabbits or guinea pigs. Female rabbits should be desexed to prevent unwanted litters which will also result in a less temperamental disposition. Male rabbits and guinea pigs should be desexed not only to prevent reproduction but also to control fighting amongst males and harassment of females.
Rabbits and guinea pigs can become ill without warning. Usually this will be characterised by lethargy and a failure to eat or drink. If your rabbit or guinea pig appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian immediately. The symptoms are similar to those of the common human cold, but may develop into pneumonia. Infection is often caused by poor living conditions. At the first sign of snuffles or sneezing seek veterinary advice.
The rabbit calicivirus disease is another virus designed to control the wild (bush) rabbit population. Rabbit owners can protect their pets by having them vaccinated yearly by a veterinarian. May be due to an intestinal infection introduced by contaminated vegetable matter, or a sudden change in diet. Withhold greens for twenty-four hours and feed your pet only hay and water. If the condition persists, consult a veterinarian. This condition occurs where the animal has not been fed sufficient hard food, or has not been provided with a gnawing block of bark-covered wood in its hutch. It is important to groom your rabbit daily so that you can check for any sign of fleas. If necessary, consult your veterinarian for advice on the best flea treatment products to use. Many of these occur due to a failure to adequately clean the hutch and remove soiled bedding straw. Urine scald and faecal contamination of the coat is easily recognised. Skin irritation and balding can also be caused by mites and ringworm. Skin abscesses in rabbits are common when fighting occurs, usually between males. . The abscesses can reach golf ball size before bursting. Veterinary assistance is required where skin irritation or abscesses occur.
Just like rabbits and guinea pigs, mice and rats are extremely sociable animals who require companionship. It is thus recommended to house at least two mice (or rats) together. Again, to avoid unintended litters, be sure not to mix entire male rats with entire female rats.
Mice and rats are talented climbers. Ropes and ladders should be provided, along with a strong exercise wheel. Ideal for exercise is a multi-storied mouse cage. Mice and rats generally groom themselves, providing their cage is kept clean. Rats enjoy to dip their face and paws in water while grooming, so ensure to provide a shallow dish of water in their cage and replenish it frequently. It is recommended you handle your pet daily to check for signs of ill-health. Daily handling also helps keep your furry friend tame. Mice and rats are omnivorous. Special food pellets and cereals can be purchased from a pet shop. In addition, nuts, grains, raw fruit and vegetables should be supplied daily, including carrot, celery, and apple. Fresh hay is an important component of their diet. Your whiskered pals will enjoy raw or cooked pasta as an occasional treat and, only on very rare occasions, can be given meat or dairy products as a special treat. Yoghurt drops are excellent treats for training your pet. Food and water dishes must be cleaned daily and fresh water replenished frequently. Mice and rats will adapt readily to a drip feed water bottle. This is the best type to avoid contamination, and easy to fill without opening the cage.
If your mouse or rat appears unwell for any reason, consult your veterinarian immediately. Small rodents have very poor recuperative powers. The accent must therefore be on the prevention of illness by very high standards of care. Seek veterinary advice at the first sign of illness.
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Rabbits are great indoor pets who can be litter-trained just like cats.
Originally bred from the wild, tame rabbits are appealing pets and live on
average from seven to 10 years. While smaller breeds such as dwarfs are generally more
active and skittish, larger breeds such as lops can be more docile. Again, it
should be noted that rabbits are better suited to children over the age of ten. 
Exclude wire-floored hutches, as these can cause problems with your pets feet.
All visible wire must in fact be covered with newspaper or similar material. 
This infection is used to control wild rabbit populations in Australia and is
transmitted from rabbit to rabbit via biting insects such as the mosquito or
flea. Symptoms are: very sore eyes and nose, swollen ear flaps and genitalia,
and failure to eat or drink. The disease is fatal and no vaccination is
available. An affected rabbit should be humanely "put down" as soon as the
disease is diagnosed by a veterinary surgeon. Domestic rabbits must be kept
free of fleas and protected by a mosquito-proof hutch.
When choosing a home for your pet remember that bigger is better! Select the
largest cage possible, making sure that it is well ventilated, easy to clean,
and predator/escape proof. The cage lid should be hinged to allow access to the
animals and facilitate cleaning. Be sure to provide a small dark nesting box,
fitted as a gallery close to the lid of the cage, with access to the box
supplied via ramp, as mice suffer great stress if such a retreat is not
available. The floor of the cage should allow for good shaving litter 2.5cm deep
with ample bedding straw cover. Ensure that the area you choose to keep your
pet's cage is draught-free and will not be prone to severe weather conditions,
as mice are prone to heat and cold stress. Mice are also sensitive to dust and
sprays, so be mindful to ensure that your pet does not come into contact with
either. Clean the cage regularly and change the bedding to avoid ammonia
build-up. Finally, make sure to provide dripper type water bottles, which are
less likely to be contaminated or tipped over, and can be filled without having
to open the cage.